MOUNT RINJANI: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU TREK
Located in northern Lombok where luscious green surrounds fade to golden savannahs, Mount Rinjani is Indonesia’s second-highest peak, standing at 3,726m. After two unforgettable months in Indonesia, this was the last experience on my bucket list and let me tell you, it was not a casual hike. I consider myself fit. I lift, I flow and never miss a beat with my daily 10,000 steps. But Rinjani? Rinjani humbled me.
A LITTLE CONTEXT
Duration: 3 days / 2 nights or 2 days / 1 night
Best Season: April - November
Difficulty: dif-fi-cult
Cost: 2,500,000 - 3,500,000 IDR for 3D2N + tip
1,500,000 - 2,000,000 IDR for 2D1N + tip
What’s Included: 1 night’s stay at a local homestay (prehike), transportation, meals, guide, porters, camping gear and permits. Confirm that your tour provides a headlamp and trekking poles, as it could make or break your attempt to summit.
Tour Recommendation: There are many trekking companies offering the hike to Rinjani. I’d recommend booking in advance with a reputable company for the best experience. I booked the day before, and unfortunately, it’s not a tour group that I’d want to recommend.
Where To Start: Sembalun or Senaru? If the goal is to summit Rinjani, your starting point will be Sembalun. If you are chasing views and heading to the crater’s rim (Segara Anak) only, your starting point will be Senaru.
DAY 1: THE ASCENT BEGINS
Kicking off the trek at 6am, Pam and I were the first to be picked up from our homestay in Senaru. We met our guide, Adi and climbed into the back of a pickup truck with our backpacks. The group? Seven strangers from different corners of the world, about to spend the next three days hiking an active volcano. Whether it would be a soul-shifting experience or a slow burn for trauma bonding, remained to be determined.
We drove an hour east to Sembalun, a small mountain village and the starting point of Mount Rinjani. After a quick rundown from Adi and a private pep talk to myself (you’ve got this girl…right?), we began our trek at 8:45am. Our porters set off ahead of us up the hill, each balancing 40kg across their shoulders like it was nothing. They carried everything from camping gear, cooking utensils, food and water. Oh, and they did all this while wearing thongs (flip flops for anyone not fluent in Australian). True MVPs.
The trail began through tall, golden savannah, surrounded by rolling hills with Mount Rinjani looming above the skyline. Blue skies disappeared behind a thick layer of fog, rolling in as quickly as the trail began to incline — queue the downpour of rain. Classic November, flirting with the cusp of Indonesia’s wet season.
With the final push to the crater rim, known as Small Rinjani, it was brutal. We arrived to the campsite at 4:15pm, feeling absolutely wrecked. Thankfully, the porters had set up our tents for the night and were preparing a well appreciated hot meal for dinner.
As the thick layer of fog began to lift, it unveiled Segara Anak, a crescent-shaped lake with dramatic cliff edges and jagged peaks. We sat back, sore but smiling, soaking in a hard day’s work and appreciating the stillness of the lake. As the sun began to slip below the horizon, temperatures dropped quickly. By 7:30pm, we were out cold, bracing ourselves for an early summit push.
DAY 2: CHASING SUNRISES AND CONQUERING CRATERS
There’s something surreal about waking up at 2am on a sacred mountain. Stepping out of the tent to see the world from above, the surrounding villages still asleep with their lights flickering in the distance. The goal was to summit to the top of the mountain before 6am to watch the sunrise (spoiler: only 10 out of 70 people made it to the summit before 6am).
We hiked into the pitch black, where the trail was long and narrow, and the dirt path turned into volcanic ash. Each step was met with a struggle and felt like taking two steps forward, one step back. At one point, Pam and I realised we’d lost the group. When we finally caught up, we found Adi way ahead, zipped up in his sleeping bag, passed out against a rock. Pam and I powered on and kept our vibes high, daydreaming about post-trek rituals: sipping spicy margaritas, smoking Sampoernas, hot showers and nothing to do with Mount Rinjani.
As the sun rose from behind the peak, we were dead last (and wildly proud) to summit at 6:30am. Grinning from ear to ear, standing above the clouds and literally on top of the world, the view overlooking Lombok was magical. In that moment, everything faded, the struggle, the aches and the questioning of my sanity. It all melted away, knowing I had conquered something big.
Meanwhile, Pam was preoccupied with her own mission. Three weeks earlier, she had stubbed her big toe, and the toenail had been barely hanging on ever since. Pam was constantly banging on about her toenail, to the point it felt like we had a third travel companion. The summit marked its farewell tour. As the toenail finally detached, Pam flung the nail into the crater as a sacrificial offering to the volcanic gods.
The descent back to base camp took another three hours. Exhaustion hit hard like a wave crashing over us. True to form, Pam and I were the last ones, where we found ourselves at a fork in the trail. With no signs or people around and definitely no sign of Adi in sight, we made an executive decision to go left, trusting Pam’s sacrificial nail would guide us back.
Back at the crater, most groups had packed up and cut their hike a day short. Those staying another night were already heading to the second campsite on the other side of the lake. Given that there was a landslide the day before, the conditions of the trek were tough (we did this in November at end of season) and the route would take longer than usual. Adi suggested staying a second night at the crater’s rim, seeing as Pam and I were late to descend from the summit. Personally, I was ready to happily vamos off this mountain but the group still had optimism left in their souls. And so, we stayed another night.
While the group hiked to the hot springs, I stayed back at the campsite to rest. Just as I was drifting off, I heard the tent’s zipper unzip and locked eyes with a wild monkey. I screamed and the monkey was just as shocked to see me. As the cheeky thing ran off, I poked my head out in disbelief. Within seconds, the monkey darted out of another tent, securing a bag in its hand and disappearing off the cliff’s edge.
I called for the porters who chased down the monkey and eventually recovered the bag. It was ripped with a block of chocolate and her passport inside. A few hours later the group returned from the hot springs and thegirl was blissfully unaware that her passport had been held hostage by a monkey looking for a sweet treat.
DAY 3: SOGGY, SASSY AND SUMMITED
On our final morning, we retraced the same brutal steps we’d climbed on day one of Small but Spicy Rinjani (while the other groups took the scenic descent through Senaru’s lush rainforest). Cautious of the steep decline, I inevitably fell behind (a recurring theme) until Adi grabbed my hand and practically skated me down the mountain. The man has no fear, I on the other hand, do.
After a few stacks on the way down, the finish line finally came into sight. Dark, heavy clouds rolled in faster than we could run. Cue the torrential downpour: one last parting gift from Rinjani. Drenched, cold and souls feeling battered, we waited for the rain to ease before beginning our 6 hour trip back to Kuta.
Next stop: spicy margs, Sampoernas and the hottest shower imaginable.
FINAL THOUGHTS
With that said, this was one of the most rewarding and challenging experiences I’ve ever done. Pushing through something so physically and mentally exhasuting and actually summiting felt pretty badass (not everyone makes it to the top). For a bit of perspective, Mount Rinjani is considered tougher than Mount Kilimanjaro. Not that it’s something to brag about…until you’ve survived Mount Rinjani. Like I said, she’s humbling.
WOULD I DO IT AGAIN?
Honestly? Debatable. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Let’s just say when planning for Rinjani, it’s not the kind of thing that you book the day before from the port of Nusa Lembongan, while waiting to catch your ferry to Lombok.
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Flight
From Bali (Denpasar) - 45 minutes direct
From Jakarta - 2 hours direct
Fast Ferry
Padang Bai to Bangal Harbour - 1.5-2 hours
Cost: ~ 450,000 IDR one way
Sanur to Bangsal Harbour - 4.5 hours
Cost: 550,000 IDR
Public Ferry
Padang Bai to Lembar Harbour - 4-6 hours
Cost: 75,000 IDR
*If you catch the ferry to Lembar Harbour, you will likely need to book a taxi to take you up north or pay an additional fee as the port is located towards the south of the island
💡 Tip:
When booking your Mount Rinjani trek, confirm if an airport or harbour pickup is included (most reputable companies offer it at no extra charge).
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Looking to extend your stay to explore more of Lombok’s north? Here’s a breakdown of each village.
Senaru
Here, you’ll find simple homestays run by local families, offering warm hospitality and the charm of mountain life. It’s a great place to spend a night before or after your trek, soaking in the slower pace and rainforest surrounds.Sembalun
For a more luxurious base, you will find cosy eco-lodges and boutique stays that blend comfort with mountain views. It’s the kind of place that turns a pre- or post-trek stop into a memorable escape in Lombok’s north.
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When packing for a multi-day hike, practical and light layers are best. You will be carrying your backpack at least 6 hours each day and will feel the spiciness of the mountain’s incline.
Tempretures do significantly drop at night, where thermal layers are ideal and be prepared with a waterproof outter layer, come rain or shine.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
Backpack (20-30L)
Hiking Boots or Trail Runners
Lightweight Clothing
Warm Layers - fleece, thermals, beanie and gloves
Rain Jacket - a must if you’re going towards the end of the season
Swimming Costume - for the hot springs
Extra Socks
Hat
Sunglasses
Reusable Water Bottle
Snacks & Energy Bars - meals provided are very simple and include a light breakfast, lunch and dinner
Headlamp & Trekking Poles - to be provided by the trekking company
Basic First Aid Kit - bandaids, electrolytes, lip balm, insect repellent, medication and altitude sickness (if needed)
Sunscreen
Toilet Paper
Hand Sanitiser
Phone
Camera
Headphones
Portable Charger
