THROUGH SRI LANKA’S EMERALD HEART: ELLA TO KANDY TRAIN RIDE

Written By Nicole Vella
 

THROUGH SRI LANKA’S EMERALD HEART: ELLA TO KANDY TRAIN RIDE

The essence of slow travel is perfectly captured on one of the world’s most beautiful train rides. Winding through Sri Lanka’s emerald heart, the journey between Ella and Kandy is a cinematic passage through misty mountains, tea-covered hills, and cascading waterfalls. It’s a sweet blend of the island’s history and wild soul — where time stretches, windows are wide open, and the rhythm of Sri Lanka dances in the breeze.

 
 

A LITTLE CONTEXT

Duration: 6 - 7 hours

Best Season: December - April

Best Seats: First or second class (reserved seating)

Recommended Departure: Early morning for soft light and fewer crowds

Cost: From 350–5,000 LKR, depending on class, season and booking

A BRIEF HISTORY

Sri Lanka’s railway is a remnant of its colonial past, built by the British in the 19th century to transport coffee (and later tea) from the central highlands to the port of Colombo. Over time, its purpose shifted from carrying goods to carrying people and connecting remote villages with bustling towns. Today, it’s one of Sri Lanka’s most loved highlights, a thread between the past and the present, winding through some of the island’s most breathtakingly lush landscapes.

 
 


WHICH ROUTE TO TAKE? KANDY TO ELLA OR ELLA TO KANDY

The route can be taken in either direction — it really depends on which way you’re travelling.

  • Kandy → Ella: Start in Sri Lanka’s cultural heart and ascend into the cooler mountain regions. The scenery builds gradually, where the city fades into lush hill country, met by tea-covered hills.

  • Ella → Kandy: A much less crowded route and just as beautiful, this direction descends from the mountains, watching the landscapes shift from misty hills to the cultural capital.

Tip: Short on time? The most scenic stretch takes place between Ella and Nuwara Eliya, a 2-3 hour ride that captures the heart of Sri Lanka.

HOW LONG IS THE TRAIN RIDE?

The full journey takes around 6 - 7 hours, depending on the train and schedule. Things run on island time here, so expect delays — it's part of the experience. There are typically three trains running daily in the morning, midday and afternoon.


THE BEST VIEWS

As the train curves along mountain ridges, you’ll pass through postcard-perfect spots like Demodara Nine Arch Bridge, Haputale, and Nanu Oya — the gateway to Nuwara Eliya, affectionately known as Sri Lanka’s Little England.

For Ella to Kandy, sit on the right-hand side, and for Kandy to Ella, choose the left-hand side for the best views. But don’t worry too much if you don’t get the perfect seat — people often move between carriages to capture those iconic photos leaning out of the train doors.

 
 


BUYING A TICKET

Tickets are available one month before departure through Sri Lanka Railways, and they sell out fast, especially for reserved seating. If you miss out, don’t worry — you can easily purchase tickets through third-party websites for a small markup (around the same price as your morning avo toast). The flexibility is worth the peace of mind, especially if the beaches are calling you to stay longer.

I bought a last minute first-class reserved ticket from 12goasia.com, three days before departure, paying 2,285 LKR ($11.45 AUD in December 2024).

CARRIAGE CLASSES

The trains are divided by carriage classes, each offering a different kind of experience.

  • First Class: Air-conditioned with comfortable seats and sealed doors. Third-party websites usually only sell first-class tickets. On my ride, the windows opened (a rare perk for first-class to take photos out the window).

  • Second Class: The most popular for travellers — windows and doors stay open for the iconic shots, locals share conversations with backpackers, and the chatter carries through the carriages.

  • Third Class: The most authentic (and crowded) experience. Unreserved seating is sold on the day (subject to availability). If you’re up for a little chaos and character, it’s a true glimpse into local life.

 
 

THE EXPERIENCE: SEVEN HOURS THROUGH SRI LANKA’S SOUL

My lovely host in Ella dropped me at the station before sunrise for my 6:30am departure. The platform had a soft buzz with a mix of locals chatting and travellers carrying their fully stuffed backpacks with them (make this line more interesting with something else). The train arrived fifteen minutes late, which by Sri Lankan standards is on time.

At each stop, vendors appeared with baskets of snacks and steaming cups of tea, passing them through windows as the train sat idle at the platform. Winding through villages and fields, locals would pause to watch, while children ran alongside waving until the carriages disappeared. A ritual that’s part of their daily lives. Simplicity and beauty, shared between strangers.

Behind me sat a family of five, including a wide-eyed boy who could barely contain his excitement. Every time we entered a tunnel, he would shout “woooooooo”, holding his breath until the light returned. He never missed an opportunity, and his joy was infectious, so I joined in as a backup “woooooooo”.

 
 


The train swayed gently with each curve. Every time the view opened into another sweeping valley, the dad would tap me on the head to make sure I didn’t miss any of the views. After a few too many enthusiastic and abrup taps to the head and accidental fumble of his phone hitting me in the face, he stopped and left me alone. Finally, some peace.

After seven long hours, I arrived in Kandy and continued to travel north toward Sigiriya. Filled with sheer exhaustion, I realised I had left my purse (with all my cash and bank cards) on the bus which had long gone on its way to the nothern point of the country. By some miracle, a tuk-tuk driver had tracked down the exact bus and organised for me to pick it up the next morning. He moved mountains to try to help me and his kindness reminded me that Sri Lanka’s true beauty lies not just in its landscapes, but in its people. Honesly, I could say this would not happen anywhere else in the world.

 
 

FINAL THOUGHTS

This train ride is one of Sri Lanka’s true highlights, where every curve, tunnel and valley tells its own story. Whichever direction you choose to take, the ride is more than just a way to get from one place to another — it’s a moving connection through history, nature and soul of Sri Lanka’s rolling hills.

If you have the time, break up the trip with an overnight stay in Nuwara Eliya or Kandy, or hire a private driver for the next leg. This journey is a reminder to slow down and savour each moment, as beauty is found in the stillness of the island’s soul.

 
Nicole Vella