WHAT IT’S LIKE TO EXPLORE THE WORLD’S THIRD LARGEST CAVE: HANG EN EXPEDITION PHONG NHA
WHAT IT’S LIKE TO EXPLORE THE WORLD’S THIRD LARGEST CAVE: HANG EN EXPEDITION
What if I told you that you can hike through wild jungle and sleep overnight inside a cave that’s three million years old? Welcome to Hang Én — the world’s third-largest cave, hidden deep in central Vietnam. Carved by underground rivers sculpting limestone over millions of years, it’s raw, surreal, and one of the planet’s most extraordinary natural wonders.
A LITTLE CONTEXT
Duration: 2 days / 1 night
Best Season: December - September
Difficulty: moderate
Cost: 8,800,00 VND (prices increase each year)
What’s Included: 1 night’s stay in the cave, camping gear, helmet, headlamp, gloves, hiking shoes, all meals, and transportation to and from your accomodation
Tour Recommendation: Oxalis Adventure
HANG EN CAVE HISTORY
Hang Én was first discovered by a local in the early 1990s and officially explored in 1994 by British–Vietnamese cavers, who revealed it as part of an extraordinary cave system, and a key gateway to Sơn Đoòng — the world’s largest cave. Long before its discovery, Hang Én was used as a seasonal shelter by the Arem people, a nomadic indigenous group who lived in the region for generations.
Located within Phong Nha–Kẻ Bàng National Park, the caves were UNESCO World Heritage listed in 2003 and are celebrated for their vast karst landscapes, underground rivers, and self-contained ecosystems. Thousands of swifts nest high in the cave ceiling, giving it the name Hang Én, meaning “Swallow Cave.”
Today, Oxalis Adventure is the only company permitted to operate tours here. Visitor numbers are strictly limited each year, with tourism funds reinvested into conservation, research, and local communities — ensuring this rare natural wonder remains protected.
THE EXPERIENCE: 11KM OF UNTOUCHED BEAUTY
There were a few experiences that I had my heart set on for my trip to Vietnam, and this was at the top of the list. When a spot opened up, it felt like all my stars were aligning. A week and a half later, I was picked up from my accomodation in Phong Nha and introduced to the group I’d be sharing the next two days with.
Our group of eleven included solo travellers, couples, and a family, all from different corners of the world. We were led by two expert guides and supported by local porters who balanced cooking setups and camping gear across their shoulders without breaking a sweat. The Oxalis team runs this expedition multiple times a week — and it shows.
The hike was mostly downhill, crossing shallow streams and shin-deep rivers at an easy pace. Dense jungle surrounded us, broken only by moments of stillness and sunlight filtering through the canopy. Aside from crossing paths with a farmer and his water buffalo near the start of the trail, we had the entirety of the jungle to ourselves.
We stopped for lunch in a remote village home to the Bru–Vân Kiều people, where a local family prepared fresh bánh mì with baguette rolls and fruit. We learned about life lived deep in the jungle and the traditions that continue to be carried, offering a rare glimpse into daily life in one of Vietnam’s most remote villages.
From there, the landscape began to open up. Grasslands widened and rivers broadened. Led to a vast opening that was the entrance to Hang Én, you could feel how significantly cooler it was than the outside jungle.
STEPPING INSIDE HANG EN
Climbing over stacked rocks on all fours, I reached the top and stopped in my tracks. The scene in front of me didn’t feel real. The entrance disguises the cave’s true scale — 1.6 kilometres long, with ceilings reaching up to 100 metres high. Below, a lake stretched across the cave floor, with a raft connecting us to the campsite on the other side. Tents and a dining area were already set up by the porters, complete with picnic chairs by the water’s edge — an unreal place to sit and simply take it all in.
After settling in, we swam in the lake, which doubles as the cave’s bathing spot. Tiny fish pinch at your skin, catching you off guard at first. As daylight faded, headlamps and warm layers became essential. Dinner was made with love by the porters and served family-style along a long dining table, with several comforting Vietnamese dishes.
We could see the stars so vividly through the cave opening, playing cards (first time playing President), sharing stories by the lake, and turning in early, exhausted in the best possible way.
MORNING IN THE CAVE
I woke during the night to the sound of thousands of swifts echoing through the cave. Before sunrise, you could see their silhouettes circle the opening against the soft morning light. I couldn’t fall back asleep — partly because of the noise, partly because it felt surreal taking myself on this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
The morning hike began early as we explored deeper inside the cave. In the dry season, the cave’s pools are exposed, revealing stunning terraced formations shaped by mineral-rich water. In the wet season, these pools fill completely, transforming the cave into an underground river system.
Our guides explained how rivers carved through limestone to form the cave, leaving behind dramatic stalactites and stalagmites that looked like candle wax overflowing, shimmering in torchlight. Inspired and in awe of its beauty, how magical nature is and a result of millions of years in the making.
We returned to the campsite for a last family-style meal before starting the journey back — which was much tougher. The trek was a steady uphill climb through the humid jungle, where everything felt heavier. At this point, hiking with wet boots felt like wearing ankle weights, waiting for the finish line to be insight. Reaching the top was incredibly rewarding, feeling challenged, inspired and proud. The Oaxlis team had cold drinks and a wooden medal waiting for us — a small token for a huge adventure!
ABOUT THE TOUR GROUP
Oxalis Adventure is the only company permitted by the Vietnamese government to run tours through Hang Én and Sơn Đoòng. Their ethos for sustainable tourism is reflected in the way their tours are run — in small groups with 2 guides — employing locals who understand the land and share a passion for what they do.
This was not a sponsored trip — I paid for this trip myself and it was one of the highlights of my trip in Vietnam and one of the coolest bucket list experiences to date. I have never experienced a tour that ran so professionally and was blown away by the Oaxlis Adventure team and their ethos for sustainable tourism.
FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY YOU SHOULD ADD IT TO YOUR BUCKET LIST
Camping in Hang Én felt like stepping into another world, one where nature has formed in the most magical way, creating beautiful and detailed formations that have been preserved for millions of years. The expedition is not only an insight into raw nature, but also a connection to the locals who choose to share their pride and passion for the caves and a moment shared with one of Vietnam’s most remote villages. I left this in complete awe and deeply inspired by Vietnam’s beauty, softness and sense of adventure, travelling off-the-beaten-path. A truly once-in-a-lifetime experience, the expedition was nothing short of spectacular from start to finish.
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Hang Én is perfect for those wanting a taste of the expedition and explore deeper into Vietnam’s off-th-beaten path trail. A two-day expedition thats the perfect balance of challenge, exploration, adventure and challenge. For me this was perfect, I was caved out by the end of it and for the rest of my trip across SE Asia.
Sơn Đoòng is for the true cave enthusiasts. A five-day expedition through the world’s largest cave, through an underground world so vast it has its own jungle and weather system. The expedition includes sections of Hang Én and is reserved for experienced adventurers, with extremely limited permits to ensure conservation and safety.
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Most travellers stay in Phong Nha Town, the gateway to the cave region and the departure point for all Oxalis Adventure tours. This small, laid-back riverside town has everything you need before your trek — from cozy guesthouses and boutique hotels to cafes, motorbike rentals, and gear shops.
Staying here the night before your hike makes the early morning pickup stress-free and gives you time to relax, explore the local scene, and stock up on snacks or hiking essentials.
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Oxalis provide the camping and hiking gear so all you need to worry about is what you will be carrying on the hike with you. A small, comfortable backpack thats waterproof is ideal.
Temperatures drop significantly in the cave so light, practical layers come in handy as well as a waterproof outer layer, come rain or shine.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
Clothing
Long Sleeves Top & Long Pants - for sun protection, scratches and leeches (you’ll find many of them here)
Warm Layer - jacket or jumper for inside the cave, especially at night
Swimwear - for the cave lake
Hat
Underwear & Extra Socks
Sleepwear
Sunnies
Footwear
Hiking Shoes - don’t worry if you don’t have this, Oxalis provide trendy hiking shoes
Slides or Thongs - around camp. Heads up, there a lot of crickets jumping around
Gear & Essentials
Small Backpack
Reusable Water Bottle
Insect Repellent
Sunscreen
Personal Toiletries
Quick-Dry Towel
Camera
Phone
Portable Charger
Earplugs - the swifts are up all night
Snacks - meals are provided
